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Dog Health Care Insurance Coverage: Will It Be Actually Worth The Cost?

July 27th, 2010 · Uncategorized

Health insurance for dogs serves as a means of dispersing the price tag on veterinarian treatment for your dog. Nearly every pup will be included from your 6 week old pup upward.

For everybody who is thinking about the use of pet dog insurance, do not forget that 1 in 3 pet dogs will have out-of-the-ordinary medical care bills inside the next 12 months, and 2 in 3 puppies suffer the pain of a serious (i.e. expensive) health care condition at some time in their life.

Vets are now ın a position to handle a great many health conditions that previously could have been lethal for a canine. But bear in mind, the money necessary for these emerging life saving healing procedures could very well be prohibitive. It would be difficult to be in a situation where tricky medical treatments might save your valuable dog’s life, however, you cannot afford to pay for it. This is certainly happening to a lot more everyday people as the limits of veterinary clinic medical treatment are extended.

Having dog health care insurance should make it easier for you to manage events where the money necessary for your dog’s treatment might possibly be quite high. If your doggy develops a critical sickness or has a specialized medical crisis, it can save you a lot of cash to be able to claim the costs on health care insurance.

One additional benefit of doggy insurance policy coverage is that if your family dog is covered, you will get him to the vet any time he has a health care concern. Although we all always feel that our canine’s wellbeing would come first in many situations, there may be occasions when a trip to the veterinarian was delayed due to finance factors. For those who have medical insurance coverage you do not need to be so stressed concerning the fees when your pup is suffering.

Much like health insurance on your spouse and kids, you’ll find the fact that very different policies provide different protection. Prior to deciding on any doggy health insurance, take the time to choose from a variety of programs from several different carriers. A few organizations will not cover specified breeds, or they’ll exclude specified problems which are wide-spread in specific dog breeds, like hip dysplasia.

But if your pup has suffered any kind of illnesses up to now, look at a policy that includes pre-existing conditions. This could require more expensive monthly obligations and yet can save you hard earned cash if ever the disease returns. For your puppy dog, you will want to know if the package covers vaccinations.

You may even choose to inquire into new puppy medical care insurance coverage with your veterinarian. Quite a few vets are linked up with particular doggie insurance providers. This makes it much easier to make a claim, but you might not necessarily receive the best benefits for your circumstances.

You can sometimes save on the regular cost of a pup health care insurance plan by accepting to pay some the fee each and every time that your doggy requires medical care. For instance, when you pay the first $50 or even $25 of any individual claim, you can expect to pay a lot less every month than if you would like the insurance coverage to pay for everything.

A growing number of sensible canine owners are taking out insurance these days. Look at an insurance plan on your own. Doggy insurance coverage can offer protection to your canine together with your finances.

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Are Your Cleaning Products Harming Your Pets?

July 26th, 2010 · cat health, dog health, pet health, pet news

Store bought cleaning products and air-fresheners are made with chemicals, or combinations of chemicals. Most of the labels tell us they are harmful if swallowed, or if they get in your eye or open cuts. Granted that is not likely to happen, but what about constant exposure? Things like frequent headaches, loss of energy, dizziness can all be attributed to over-exposure to chemicals. The issue is How much exposure is too much? Here’s a common complaint: Your pet is sick and the vet can’t figure out why! Vets are trained to treat the symptoms from something that is likely to be transient.  They are ill-equipped to treat a constant health threat, like cleaning and air freshening products.

I hope that you have never experienced any of the afore mentioned symptoms, but what about your pets? Remember one of our years is the equivalent of 5-7 of theirs! Their exposure is 5-7 times greater than your own. While it is very important that the areas your pets roam are clean and disinfected, it is also important that you know what you are using to do so. Chemical cleaners can be very toxic, even when properly diluted, but the tendency is to use a more concentrated cleaner for the areas your pet frequents to protect your pet and your family. People who are unable to clean and disinfect regularly, often place air-fresheners near the bedding and resting places. And when they do get to clean, they are likely to use more concentrated products. Unfortunately, your pet can’t say “Hey,this is burning my eyes, nose, my mouth, or my paws!”

The chemicals used in cleaners, disinfectants, and air-fresheners can burn your lungs and eyes. They can cause the pads of your pet’s feet to burn. In response, your pet licks their pads (often incessantly), and ingests the chemicals. This is often an unknown cause of diarrhea, vomiting, and numerous misdiagnoses. Now, imagine you are your pet. You spend most of your home life at floor level, inches from where fumes and germs are the most concentrated, and you are inhaling these fumes 5-7 times faster than the humans in your family.

You can make your pet areas clean and germ-free without exposing your family or your pet to toxic chemicals. Hydrogen peroxide and vinegar are inexpensive off-the-shelf harmless items that clean and disinfect better than most off-the-shelf cleaners. They make your pet areas clean and germ-free without exposing your family or your pet to toxic chemicals. Susan Sumner, a food scientist at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, developed a cleaning and sanitizing combination that consists of 3% hydrogen peroxide (available at the drug store). Hydrogen peroxide is much cheaper by the gallon. Concentrated hydrogen peroxide is available from beauty supply stores. If you go that route, make sure you handle it with gloves. Dilution ratios for 3% are available on line. It is best to dilute with purified water. To enhance the disinfecting power, I add colloidal silver to the hydrogen peroxide. You can buy a colloidal silver generator for around $200 that will last a lifetime. Also, you can buy gallon jugs of concentrated hydrogen peroxide at a beauty supply store and dilute it to 3%. If you make a gallon, you can use some to mop floors, put some in a spray bottle to disinfect the air, bedding, walls, door handles, countertops, fruits and vegetables, cutting boards, remote controls, cell phones… Fill another spray bottle with plain white vinegar to use as a cleaner. The combination is also good for cleaning food bowls, water bowls and litter boxes.

In tests at Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, pairing the two mists killed virtually all Salmonella, Shigella, or E. coli bacteria on heavily contaminated food and surfaces, making this spray combination more effective at killing these potentially lethal bacteria than chlorine bleach or any commercially available kitchen cleaner. The best results came from using one mist right after the other- it is 10 times more effective than using either spray by itself and more effective than mixing the vinegar and hydrogen peroxide in one sprayer! When cleaning fruit; liberally spray both the vinegar and the hydrogen peroxide, leave them on for several minutes, then rinse under running water, preferably filtered. There is no after taste, or toxic residue.

Somehow, we have gotten away from basic, safe, yet effective cleaners and replaced them with potentially harmful off-the-shelf chemical cleaners and air-fresheners. The burning question (no pun intended) is “Why?” Clearly, Madison Avenue is very good at what they do, but at whose expense?

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Here’s The Scoop On Litter Boxes For Your Cat

July 19th, 2010 · cat health, pet health, pet news

Cats make wonderful family pets. They are lovable, quiet and you don’t have to worry about them chasing a car down the street. There is one small drawback to owning a feline though and that is the litter box. Even if you clean  on a daily basis, you may still find that there are lingering odors in the room. A really easy and convenient solution to this is a self-cleaning cat litter box.

Unlike the name suggests, unfortunately this doesn’t mean the box will completely clean itself including disposing of the waste. It does however mean that every time your cat or kitten uses the box, the litter itself will be cleaned.

Most boxes all work the same way. They are plastic, and can come with an optional cover. Usually once a day the cat’s owner comes along and scoops any clumps out of the litter. Those clumps are formed when the cat uses the litter box to relieve themselves. If the cat is home alone all day and the owner isn’t cleaning the litter until bedtime, that leaves a lot of time for odors to move around the home. That’s not the case with a self-cleaning cat litter box though. A motorized arm does the work of the owner and is done each time the cat leaves the box.

This can seem a bit haphazard to a concerned pet owner. It’s not though, and the cat will come to no harm at all. A self-cleaning cat litter box actually has a sensor in it that can detect when the cat is using the litter box and when he has left the box. Only then will the motorized arm begin working. If the cat decides to go back into the box, the arm will stop moving. The chance of the cat being injured or hurt by the motorized arm is almost non-existent.

Once the owner returns home from work or their outing, they need onlt to collect the discarded litter. As is the case with a tradional cat litter box, it should be completely cleaned frequently by dumping the litter and replacing with fresh litter.

Also, if you live in a large home, it’s a good idea to have more than one box in your home. Most people think they only need one but that can lead to the cat having to hold their urine in if they are in a different part of the home. This can actually result in urinary tract problems for the cat. In some cases, the cat is simply too lazy to walk the distance to the box in another room so they soil the floor. Think about adding an extra cat litter box if you do live in a larger home.

Till next time …

Debbie Foster is the owner of Pet Beds Unlimited and an avid animal lover. You’ll find a wide selection of quality pet beds, dog crates, dog carriers, dog pens, cat beds, cat carriers, small dog beds, large dog beds, pet strollers and more at http://petbedsunlimited.com

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Getting Rid of Dog Fleas - Step by Step Instructions

July 12th, 2010 · dog health, pet health, pet news

Dog fleas are a pervasive problem that many pets and pet owners are plagued with.  Getting rid of fleas isn’t easy, but it can be done by being diligent in following the steps below.

In order to rid your house of fleas and prevent them from coming back, you need to understand that the adult fleas on your dog make up only about 5% of the flea infestation - the other 95% in various stages are living in your house and yard. Therefore it is very important to do a total treatment (at the same time!) of all possible flea locations, and get rid of the fleas, flea eggs, larvae and pupae.

1 -Rid your house of fleas - first, take your dog outside so that he won’t be spreading fleas back to the areas that you have just cleaned. Second, pick up anything and everything that is on the floor in all of your living spaces, including bedrooms, bathrooms, closets - everywhere your dog has access fleas will exist. Wash EVERYTHING - launder your clothes, sheets, dog toys, dog bedding, blankets etc. Anything that can’t be dried, hang up to dry outside in the sunlight.

Go through the entire house and vacuum as thoroughly as possible, making sure to get under all beds, as close to the walls as possible, under and behind furniture. Also vacuum any upholstered items in the areas your dog frequents. Once this is done, throw out the vacuum bag so fleas don’t re-emerge or hatch and re-emerge. Use soap and water to clean all hard surfaces, including closet floors, garage floors, and patio decks. Once everything has been thoroughly cleaned to get rid of obvious fleas, arrange to leave the house while you have a flea treatment. Make sure not to come back until the recommended time has passed and the treatment has been allowed to dry thoroughly.

2 - Rid your outdoor spaces of fleas - any fleas that are outside the home are a problem as well, since they will be brought back into the house again the first time you dog visits these areas. At the same time that you are having your house treated for fleas, it is a good idea to have your yard and any other outdoor space treated as well. Remember to pay special attention to dark humid places where fleas typically like to hide, such as corners, cracks, and underneath things like your patio deck.

3 - Rid your dog of fleas - while your house and your yard are being treated, find a good place to give your dog a bath to kill the fleas that are actively on his coat. Give him a thorough bath with dog shampoo, making sure to start at the head and work backwards so that fleas don’t simply migrate towards the head where they won’t be submerged and killed. After your dog dries, make sure that all fleas have been killed by double checking with a flea comb. Now is a good time to wash the clothes you wore to wash your dog, in case any fleas were transferred during the flea killing bath.

4 - Get rid of fleas for the next two weeks - this step is as important as the first three steps combined. There will be a number of flea eggs, larvae and pupae that were not caught by the initial treatment, so it is important to continue vacuuming (remember to dispose of the vacuum bag each time) and washing items that may contain these pre adult fleas over the next two weeks. If you don’t do this follow-up to keep fleas at bay, you will simply have an entirely new batch of fleas to deal with in one or two weeks time.

Till next time …

Read more about how to get rid of fleas and check out dog flea remedies.
Debbie Foster is the owner of Pet Beds Unlimited and an avid animal lover. You’ll find a wide selection of quality pet beds, dog crates, dog carriers, dog pens, cat beds, cat carriers, small dog beds, large dog beds, pet strollers and more at http://petbedsunlimited.com.

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Helpful Tips For Training Your Dog

July 5th, 2010 · dog health, pet fun, pet health, pet news

If you have a dog and don’t have the patience, energy or time to train him, you’re not alone. This is a task that requires significant effort, especially if you want to have a well-adjusted dog that is happy — and has a happy owner, too. For some people, this means that they need the services of a professional dog trainer.

When it comes to hiring a trainer, quality and cost are going to vary as with any profession. Training philosophies are also probably going to differ significantly depending on the trainer, too, especially because it involves interacting with animals. Therefore, take the following things into consideration as you make your selection.

What’s your budget? It can depend on where you live, but in some cases, you may be able to get training services for free, often done weekly by volunteers in shelters or parks. Or, you may pay for pricier service, up to $100 or even more per training session. What’s a reasonable fee? That will vary, depending on the trainer’s experience, where you live, the length of the program itself and the goals you have for your dog.

Take a look at your schedule. Some training programs happen every week, others do so more often. You may have to leave your dog at the training facility and pick it up afterward, or you may opt to sign up for a program where the training involves you as well as your dog. Most training programs do suggest that you spend some time with your dog training him or her every day, either at the trainer facility or at home.

In some cases, you may want to consider so-called “boot camp” training programs. In that case, your dog will go away to a special facility for quite awhile, up to several weeks. The training the dog receives is intensive, happens over the training period of time, and it happens very regularly, too. However, don’t be concerned that this is too hard on dogs. Dogs love this type of treatment. Near the end of this type of training, you, too, will usually have to participate so that the dog’s obedience is “transferred” from the trainers to you.

The results of these programs are often amazing, though. For those dogs who graduate, even if they’re not involved in “special service” types of functions, they are actually eager to follow instructions, and are very disciplined besides. Paradoxically, though, these dogs show no signs of repression and in fact are usually very playful and happy.

What are your goals? Do you want your dog to be entered in shows, or do you just want a dog that doesn’t chew on your favorite shoes or pick on other pets? Whatever your goals, you’ll need to train your dog — and do so on a regular basis — to get the results you want. How much training is required will depend on your dog, his age, breed, and temperament.

Take a look at your dog’s temperament; for example, is your dog fearful, either because he was mistreated before or just because it’s submissive? Or, your dog may be assertive, either because it’s been abused previously and has had to fight back, or simply because it wants to be “leader of the pack.” The training you choose is going to depend on how you want to influence your dog and the characteristics you want to mold.

Whatever the goals for your dog, and whatever your commitment and budget, you will want to hire a trainer who has infinite patience, energy, and a deep love for dogs. Most dog trainers have these characteristics very strongly.

Beyond the basics discussed, you’ll also want a trainer whose philosophy matches your own and makes sense to you, and who will respect and match your goals. Some trainers have a viewpoint that “dog” training is really about training the owner, not the dog, and there may be some truth to that a lot of the time. Some dog trainers are more permissive, friendly, lenient, and focus on emotionally “connecting” with your dog, while others are much more commanding and demand respect and obedience. Still others use a mix of these two schools of thought.

It’s likely that you’ll lean toward one training style versus another, but neither training style is entirely subjective. Even if you have disagreements with your trainer, there are likely principles that you’ll agree on nonetheless. Persistence, patience and consistency, as well as the need for the human to be in the “alpha” position, are just a few of these commonly held beliefs.

When it comes to choosing your trainer, ask for recommendations from those you share similar values with and don’t be afraid to shop around. You may have to change trainers over the course of things in order to find one that meets your needs. However, be careful that you don’t change things without careful thought. Something dogs need most is consistency, as well as a steady environment so that they can learn well.

Till next time …

Debbie Foster is the owner of Pet Beds Unlimited and an avid animal lover. You’ll find a wide selection of quality pet beds, dog crates, dog carriers, dog pens, cat beds, cat carriers, small dog beds, large dog beds, pet strollers and more at http://petbedsunlimited.com.

You can pick up more advice, tips, and techniques like these from Ira Nelson who has years of experience in the Dog Training and Care field.

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